This is something only your vet can do and requires a few visits over the first year.

    • 6-8 weeks         DHP Vaccination
    • 10-12 weeks     DHP & KC Vaccination
    • 16 weeks          DHP Vaccination
    • 12 months        DHP & KC Booster Vaccinations
    • Yearly                KC Vaccinations
    • 3 Yearly             DHP Vaccination

      DHP is Distemper, Hepatitis and Parvovirus, this is an injectable live vaccine for dogs containing attenuated canine distemper virus, canine adenovirus (CAV-2) and canine parvovirus (C154).

      KC is Kennel Cough, however it is now more frequently referred to as Canine Cough. This is a live vaccine for dogs containing attenuated Bordetella bronchiseptica and canine parainfluenza virus for intranasal application.


      Vaccinations are an important part of your pets’ preventative health care. They help prepare the immune system to fight off disease causing organisms. Not every animal needs to be vaccinated against every disease, your vet will discuss with you a protocol that is individually tailored to your pet’s needs. Recent veterinary medical advances have enabled the reduction of the number of vaccinations given to an animal over its lifetime, so your pet is not given anything they don’t need.

      Dogs are generally vaccinated against Canine Distemper, Canine Hepatitis and Canine Parvovirus. Parvovirus causes severe vomiting and diarrhoea, which results in severe illness and often death. Fortunately due to widespread vaccination Distemper or Hepatitis are rarely seen.

      Vaccinating against Canine Cough (previously called Kennel Cough) is highly recommended. This highly contagious infection is treatable, but the dog feels really miserable while infected. Canine cough is easily transmitted between dogs when they meet, such as during a walk, in boarding kennels or rescue centres. It can even spread in situations where dogs are just socialising, such as training classes, dog shows, or dog trial competitions.



      This is something only your vet can do and requires a few visits over the first year.

        • 8 weeks        Tricat and FIV Vaccination
        • 10 weeks      FIV Vaccination
        • 12 weeks      Tricat and FIV Vaccination
        • 12 months     Tricat and FIV Booster Vaccination
        • Yearly            Annual vaccinations of Ducat + FIV
          (Tricat given instead of Ducat every 3rd year)


          FELINE PANLEUCOPAENIA VIRUS (FPLV): Commonly known as “cat parvo” this is highly contagious. Fortunately this disease is now quite rare due to vaccination, but is a potentially fatal viral disease of cats.
          Symptoms include:

            • - bloody diarrhoea
            • - severe dehydration
            • - depression
            • - lethargy
            • - loss of appetite
            • - fever
            • - vomiting
            • - self-biting of the tail, lower back and back legs

            FELINE AIDS: Any cat that spends time outdoors will benefit from a Feline Aids vaccine. Feline Aids is caused by infection with Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV). It causes a potentially fatal viral infection that interferes with their immune system. FIV positive cats infect healthy cats usually via biting during a cat fight.

            VIRAL CAT FLU: Feline Calicivirus (FCV): This disease is widespread throughout NZ and is highly contagious. It is particularly serious in young kittens. Infected cats can become carriers thus, spreading the infection.
            Symptoms include:

              • - sneezing
              • - nasal discharge
              • - mouth ulcers
              • - loss of appetite
              • - fever
              • - depression
              • - conjunctivitis

              Feline Rhinotracheitis or Herpesvirus (FHV): This widespread disease is extremely unpleasant and highly contagious and like FCV is also particularly serious in young kittens.  Many infected cats will become carriers and suffer flare-ups following stressful events.
              Symptoms include:

                • - sneezing
                • - nasal discharge
                • - mouth ulcers
                • - loss of appetite
                • - fever
                • - depression
                • - conjunctivitis

                FELINE CHLAMYDIAL DISEASE – Chlamydophila Felis:  This disease can be persistent and sometimes severely affects the overall health of cats, it is primarily found in multi-cat household environments and unfortunately also in some catteries.  Some cats may experience a fever and also lose their appetite as well as suffer from conjunctivitis.

                It is worth remembering that many of the diseases we vaccinate our pets against are often fatal. Whereas a child with mumps will almost certainly get better, an unvaccinated cat that contracts feline panleucopaenia virus (FPLV), for example, can easily die. Vaccination is the only reliable way to prevent these diseases.

                What are booster vaccinations?
                Annual boosters are still necessary against some diseases. At your annual heath check with the vet they will administer only those vaccines needed to maintain protection. Their primary objective is to use the minimum number of vaccine components while at the same time maintaining the optimum protection for your cat.

                Booster vaccinations remind the immune system how to respond if it should encounter an infections disease. These should be given regularly throughout the cat’s lifetime to maintain protection against disease.


                WORMS AND YOUR PETS

                WORM YOUR KITTEN each fortnight from 2 weeks of age until 12 weeks old + followed by monthly until 6 months old + then every 3 months for life.

                WORM YOUR PUPPY each fortnight from 2 weeks of age until 12 weeks old + followed by monthly until 6 months old + then every 3 months for life.

                The importance of prevention in the control of intestinal worms in dogs and cats should not be underestimated. Some worms that infect pets can pose a significant risk to human health. Children, who are often closest to family pets, are most at risk.

                Infections in humans can originate from:

                • Ingestion of eggs by not washing hands after playing with pets
                • Ingestion of eggs by small children ingesting soil contaminated with faeces
                • Penetration of larvae through the skin

                Worm infections in humans can cause:

                • Fever and an enlarged liver
                • Ocular lesions
                • Skin lesions


                Internal parasites are not always easy to detect in your pet, however there are some common signs you can watch out for such as:

                • Pale gums
                • Diarrhoea
                • A pot-bellied appearance, especially in puppies and kittens
                • Weight loss
                • White segments in faeces and/or around the anus
                • Anal irritation
                • Dull coat
                • Coughing, especially in puppies



                • Always wash your hands after playing with your pet and prevent dogs from licking your face. This will help prevent transmission of worms from your dog or cat to you!
                • Ensure your pets bedding and sleeping areas are always free from fleas, old food scraps and faeces. This will help prevent ingestion of potentially contaminated materials that can cause worm infestation.
                • Avoid placing housing, bedding and runs on bare earth.
                • Never feed offal to your pet unless it has been boiled for 30 minutes.
                • Prevent scavenging of dead carcasses by your pet.


                FLEAS AND YOUR PETS

                Flea treatment is an all-year-round commitment because fleas can be active in all seasons. Treatment is based on the weight of your pet and is different for cats and dogs. Although you may be vigilant with your treatment plan, infestation may simply occur by an untreated passing animal, and the flea eggs /larvae falling off their coat into your pets environment, indoor or out!

                The flea life cycle is complex it is comprised of four development stages.

                Stage 1 - Flea Eggs: Up to 50 white small flea eggs per day may be laid by an adult female flea on your pet. These flea eggs fall off the pet’s coat into the environment with eight hours of being laid.

                Stage 2 - Flea Larvae: Flea eggs hatch within 1-6 days into larvae. Flea larvae are mobile, they will move away from light, towards moisture and the ground.

                Stage 3 - Flea Pupae: With five to 11 days, flea larvae spin a sticky silk cocoon to become pupae which can remain dormant for up to six months, depending on the environment and conditions. (It is important to note that no insecticidal treatment kills pupae so it is important to remain vigilant with your prevention plan.)

                Stage  4 - Adult Fleas: Young fleas are stimulated to emerge from the cocoon by your pet’s body temperature, movement, shadows and exhaled carbon dioxide. Within a second, your passing pet may acquire newly emerged fleas from its home environment and with adult fleas mating on your pet within 8-24 hours, the production of flea eggs and the cycle begins again at stage one with 24-48 hours.

                Development from flea egg to an adult flea can vary from as little as 12 days to as long as 325 days.



                Fleas are blood-sucking parasites that can make life miserable for pets and their owners. 
                They can cause:

                • Intense itching and scratching which can result in hair loss
                • Flea Allergy Dermatitis – a very common and unpleasant skin condition caused by an allergy to flea saliva
                • Tapeworm infestation
                • Anaemia in puppies and kittens.

                HOW DID MY PET PICK UP FLEAS?

                Fleas rarely jump from one pet to another, instead cats and dogs pick them up from infested environments. This could be your garden, the local park, a friend’s house – any place where an animal that has fleas, such as a hedgehog, possum or another cat or dog, may be found.

                Infested animals leave flea eggs behind wherever they go. New fleas hatch from these infested environments once they sense the warmth, the carbon dioxide and vibrations an animal such as your pet creates and jump onto them.

                HOW TO PREVENT FLEAS

                1. Use treatment regularly as directed by the instructions on the product you have purchased, to kill adult fleas on your pet.

                2. Make sure all cats and dogs are treated. Each pet in your household can act as a host for a flea infestation.

                3. Regularly vacuum your carpets and furnishings and wash your pets bedding above 60°C. This will help to reduce the number of any eggs, larvae and pupae in the environment.

                4. Use an environmental spray or fogger containing an Insect Growth Regulator. This will kill eggs and larvae that are developing in the home environment.  Existing pupae will continue to hatch for several weeks until the population is depleted.

                Note: it is normal to see a few new fleas on your pet even after treatment as treatment does not repel fleas, so if the pet visits an infested environment, a few new adult fleas may jump onto them. These new fleas will be killed within 24 hours or so, depending on the treatment product you have chosen.

                  Important: Allow treated pets continued access to infested areas as fleas that hatch from pupae in the home can then jump onto your pet and be killed through contact with your treatment.  No insecticidal treatment kills pupae so this is an important step.


                  • Discard all flea infested items, eg bedding where practical.
                  • Clean between floor boards and in cracks between tiles and pavers.
                  • Vacuum regularly; steam clean where possible. This will assist with removal of eggs and stimulate fleas to emerge.
                  • Wash pet bedding and blankets regularly in hot water.
                  • Place items that come into contact with pets but cannot be washed in direct sunlight every few days (ie cushions, door mats, rugs etc) this will help kill the immature flea stages.
                  • If possible prevent other pets from visiting your home that have not been treated.
                  • Conduct a “white sock test”. Put on a pair of long white socks and walk around your pet’s environment. This will stimulate any fleas to emerge and jump onto the socks, this will help you determine if you have a flea problem, and where they are coming from. This way if you find the source you can concentrate your cleaning efforts here.